timbuktu » Guatemala

Voces de Cambio pt. 2

Sunday, September 6, 2009. Tags: & & & & .

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Voces de Cambio participants, 2009 (the whole bunch this time)

It should be pretty obvious from my last post that I’ve been away from blogging for a good while, and long overdue that I write. I’m particularly sorry to have neglected to write about Voces de Cambio while the fourth session was still going on, partly because it’s something that I’ve put a lot of time and good effort into during the past months, but mostly because it’s a great organization that deserves much, much more credit and attention. If you want to learn more about Voces, don’t hesitate to write me (or them), visit their website, and if you’d like to support the program, it’s quite easy to make a donation to Voces de Cambio from there. Recently we put them on Facebook and Twitter as well, just in case .. following them on Twitter won’t flood your inbox right away, but we might have participants twittering about their experiences in future sessions. Vamos a ver ..

Above are all of the girls from this year’s session, the fourth so far. Pictured from above, left side are: Sara, Evelyn, Ana, Angie, Laura, Janeth, Felisa, and Nancy. Below: Marta, Darinca, Mariela, and Gladys. A click on the image will open the individual portraits I took of the girls.

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Voces de Cambio

Wednesday, August 12, 2009. Tags: & & & & .

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Voces de Cambio participants, 2009 (Fourth Session)

Since early July I’ve been working with Voces de Cambio, a small non-profit in Xela run by some great people, and only my general lack of time to blog has kept it out of here; it deserves much more honorable mention than I’ve been able to give it. Voces de Cambio is an after-school program for teenage girls which provide free classes in photography and writing, as well as conversations centered around women’s rights, the role of women in Guatemala, machismo and other issues of gender inequity, and which promotes participation, self-confidence and creative growth. I originally took over from Lucas when he left Guatemala, and now that the fourth session is over, I’ve also left Guatemala. However, it’s an amazing program really, and as it’s close to our hearts we’re both continuing to work with Voces from afar. During the fourth session I’ve been running the photography bit of the program, with the indispensable help of Brenda, a graduate of the program’s first session who now works as an assistant in facilitating the new sessions. With only two days left of the exhibition at Alianza Francesa in Xela, a mention is all but overdue, but I’ll put up my images from the opening as soon as I get myself sorted here. In the meanwhile, all of the final images are now up at our Flickr gallery.

As you can see there’s some great work up there. I’ve really enjoyed working with and getting to know the participants, but also the quality of so many of the photographs has totally humbled me. I should add that most of the girls have never photographed at all before, and they’ve received a very minimum of tutoring – mostly a camera crash course and an idea to go with it. While there’s room for some personal favorites among them, more than a few of the girls have produced amazing work, and it’s been a pleasure as well as an honour to have worked with them. If you happen to be in Xela before Sep. 8th, the exhibition is still on, so I’d say get your butt down to Alianza Francesa.

¡Hasta la próxima!

Monday, June 29, 2009. Tags: & & & .

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Santo Domingo, Huehuetenango, Guatemala. 2009. Indians.

Sunday, June 21, 2009. Tags: & & & .

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Santo Domingo, Guatemala, 2009.

Today’s photo

Thursday, May 28, 2009. Tags: & & & & .

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Floor after community assembly. Santo Domingo, northern Huehuetenango, Guatemala. May 21, 2009.

And in other news

Sunday, May 24, 2009. Tags: & & & & .

My friend Peter asked me about this. So since the news is well out in international media by now, it would probably be fair to mention that these past couple of weeks the political situation in Guatemala has been more than a little precarious.

The Economist article: An indictment from the grave explains and puts the situation into a bit of context.

In brief, key members of the government have come under suspicion of murder, as foretold by the now deceased lawyer Rodrigo Rosenberg. In a video released onto the internet in the days following his death, he accused president Álvaro Colom of the murder of Rosenberg’s client, anticipating that he himself would be the next to die. A serious allegation to be sure, that’s now being investigated by the UN independent comittee CICIG and an FBI agent (one) the US embassy flew in last week. There has been a bunch of manifestations in support of Colom and a great deal more demanding his resignation these past weeks, marking the deepest political crisis of the Colom administration.

Also, demonstrations against the mining operations sprung up in the capital yesterday, among other places at the Canadian embassy. And also yesterday Goldcorp, the company responsible for the Marlin mine in San Marcos, held its annual shareholder meeting in Vancouver, Canada. Indigenous community members from Sipacapa and San Miguel Ixtahuacán in the Guatemalan highlands, as well as Nak’azdli First Nation representatives of British Colombia came to Vancouver to confront Goldcorp with its environmental and human rights resposibilities. I’m excited to hear how it went.

Free Market 101

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To illustrate earlier posts, the Marlin mine in San Miguel Ixtahuacán seen from a distance. San Marcos, Guatemala, 2009. Go ahead and click it.

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Updates from Huehue

Saturday, May 23, 2009. Tags: & & & & & & .

This morning I came back from a few days in northern Huehuetenango, where new community consultations on the mining issue were taking place. In the ongoing democratic resistance against mining exploitation by foreign companies, La Consulta Comunitaria de Buena Fe continues throughout the department, this time in San Mateo Ixtatán. There was a sense of civic fiesta there, with cheerful marimba music, many people assembling outside the community hall as the results came in from the surrounding communities of the region, and ‘fireworks’ going off at an unnerving rate (bombs, why not say it). As earlier, the ‘NO’ to mining seems unanimous, although I didn’t stay for the final results.

I’ve just revisited my last photo post on the previous consulta. I posted it rather quickly and since found a lot of errors. Now I’ve spent the last hours fixing it, uploading the images in big versions, captioning it and fixing technical issues, had to do a lot of fiddling with the code and other stuff I shouldn’t be doing at 2am, nor at any other time for that matter…but: There should now be a nice set of 18 photos in a slide show, up and working. Enjoy, and let me know if you notice any issues.

I’ll post more about this week’s consulta after I’ve sorted through my photos, of which there is far too many. It’ll be at least a week of staring into the screen, but luckily there’s also a great deal of eatin’ throughout this weekend. I’m sorry to say it’s on the occation that our friend Simca is leaving to go back home to Boston, but such is life.

Now I’m getting myself hungry again at 3am. Goodnight computer. Hello bed.

Photos from Canicham

Monday, May 11, 2009. Tags: & & & & & & .

Here are the photos from Caserio Canicham, the very small community I visited during their community referendum on mining, which I wrote about in the previous post. A click on an image starts a view of the entire set in full size (18 pictures).

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Click on an image to view the whole series in a large size.

San Rafael la Independencia, Guatemala, 2009. During a local community referendum against chemical mineral mining, in which the people of Canicham, a small rural community in northern Huehuetenango, voted unanimously against mining in Guatemala. Before being signed, the community statement was read to the community members.

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Click on an image to view the whole series in a large size.

San Rafael la Independencia, Guatemala, 2009. During a local community referendum against chemical mineral mining, kids play with found stuff.

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Community consultation of good faith

Friday, May 1, 2009. Tags: & & & & .

The last two days I spent in the mountains in northern Huehuetenango, where a series of community consultations over mineral mining took place on Tuesday, in mainly Mayan Akateca communities in the farmlands surrounding San Rafael la Independencia. Thanks to a friend from NISGUA I had the opportunity to witness this rare moment of community gathering and to document the events of the day.

La Consulta Comunitaria de Buena Fe (‘The Community Referendum of Good Faith’) took place on the background of the opposition of Guatemalan communities to international megaprojects such as hydroelectric dams and especially chemical mineral mining operations. On such is the Marlin mine, an open-pit gold mine in the San Miguel Ixtahuacán and Sipakapa municipalities of San Marcos to the south, and since its opening in 2005 the subject of massive local opposition. And with good reason, as the impact on the local environment has been nothing short of disastrous. With little or no local consultation or consent prior to beginning construction, the company behind the Marlin mine, Montana Exploradora, pressured communities of San Miguel Ixtahuacán into selling their fertile ancestral lands, and people found themselves uprooted and displaced to infertile lands they couldn’t farm. From then it got worse; the mine is an open-pit mining operation where gold is extracted from the ore by a chemical process using cyanide and enough water per hour to sustain an average Guatemalan family of the area for 22 years. What follows is like the Plagues of Egypt unleashed upon the lands: water depletion and contamination, structural damages to houses due to underground vibrations, health issues such as vicious skin infections in children and a rise of cancer cases. As the mining cmopany has increased its use of security personnel, the area has also seen an increase of disappearences and mysterious deaths. In San Miguel Ixtahuacán, the sense of vigilance is mixed also with a sense of fear and oppression. When I visited a community in San Miguel Ixtahuacán with a big group, we were unexpectantly met by armed San Marcos police who insisted to escort us on the entire journey on the pretext of protecting us; it felt more like surveillance, as I think it was, on request of someone else.

The mine in San Marcos is owned by Goldcorp, a Canadian mining giant of which Montana is a subsidiary. Goldcorp has continually denied any responsability and in biased Environmental and Human Rights Impacts Assessments claim there’s no relation between their mining operations and the environmental damages and health issues of the surrounding communities. But if you ask any independent organizations you’ll hear a different story, or better yet, if you ask the people. The local opposition movement against mining in Guatemala have in part risen out of the local resistance in neighbouring Sipakapa to Goldcorp’s operations that are expanding from San Miguel Ixtahuacán into Sipakapa. For almost five years Sipakapa has resisted Goldcorp’s influence, witnessing as they could the destruction being done to Ixtahuacán. Since mid 2005 the residents have organized community consultations where they put the mining to a popular vote which is then presented to Congress. The consultas should be seen as part of the larger resistance movement in Guatemala, but they form an important and inspirational capacity.  In selling off their land piece by piece to foreign investors it gets harder and harder for the government to ignore the signatures of hundreds of thousands of farmers’ votes against mining licensing to foreign companies, as more and more community consultas take place around in the country.

Back in Huehue, I spent the night in the casa of Don Miguel, a local patriarch of Caserio Canicham, a small settlement of ten or so houses. Most of the people speak Akateco and little or no Spanish, but during dinner with Miguel we did have some great conversations, in which the inevitable question soon popped up: Whether there were work to be found in Europe. Don Miguel worked in the fields for 30 years, but family in the States – everyone has some family in the States or Mexico – have made it possible for him to build a colourful annex to his house here in the hills. The toilet’s still a tiny shed down before the cornfields, but I guess you have to prioritize. Empathetically (at least I’d like to think) I guess I said something about the World economic crisis ‘n’ all, and that it’s probably tough to find work anywhere.

The next morning at the consulta most of Canicham showed up prepared. I was acting as an independent observer to the proceedings, which I did as best I could, and snapping pictures when I could get around to it. Although I did attract a fair bit of attention, being the only outsider present in a group of forty-eight people, I think I balanced well enough between being a photographer and some kind of authority of international standing and was accepted as such .. perhaps a bit over the top, as the assembly secretary Francisco Diego gave off the impression I’d flewn in directly from Europe to oversee the consulta (though he could have done that as a courtesy towards me, he’s that kind of guy). In any case, I won’t hide a certain pride in knowing that my name was meticulously written into the community act to be entered into the municipal records.
If my presence at the consulta caused any uneasiness or stifled curiosity from the elders -I don’t know which- I think it fell apart after goofing around with the kids for a few hours. Of course they all turned out to be incredibly resourceful, which I think is the case with most kids who grew up under pretty dire straits, like life in this countryside; after our shared efforts of building a tiny church out of twigs, they were suddenly all over the place finding ever more unlikely construction materials and the church had turned into several towers of babel.

So this was what the consulta was all about: everyone was there. Every head a vote, and it was made by the book and with pride. A hand raised in favor, a hand raised against. It was a popular vote, direct democracy in one of is purest forms and I’m glad I was there to witness the members of a small community not yet affected by mining, unanimously say no to the exploitation of their ancestral lands.

Pictures will be up soon.

Today’s photo

Monday, March 30, 2009. Tags: & & & & & & .

Click to see image in large size.Efraín Bámaca, Quetzaltenango, 2009. Everardo.

Everado Lopez lives in Efraín Bámaca, a small community of ex-combatants in Cantón Chichigüitan, just on the other side of the hills from my house. After the civil war officially ended in 1996, a group of 22 families who participated in the war as guerillas got together and bought this small patch of land behind the eastern hills of Quetzaltenango. They named it after Efraín Bámaca Velásquez, the revolutionary leader of the URNG who was captured and permanently disappeared by the military government in the familiar fashion aided by the CIA. Efraín Bámaca the community lies beautifully among cultivated hillsides and fields of corn and cabbage, which almost all of the inhabitants work as day-laborers since their own land contains little fertile land. After five years of building the community, three family houses still remain to be built, but the community no longer has the external support or funding needed to buy the materials. They’ve recently installed electricity, but the community lacks an efficient water solution, a water drainage, and a paved road to avoid swamping during the rainy season – and dust during the dry season. The residents of Efraín Bámaca also dream of one day building a school and perhaps even a small playground for their children, but due to a large communal debt and low income, they need external support in order to take the community towards a sustainable future.

I visited on February 14th, and the image above is my first out of Aperture, a photo editing software I’ll be using from now on. Click on the image to view the large version of the photo along with its caption, this is an option for every own photo that I upload. More to follow on Efraín Bámaca.

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Open letter to President of Guatemala Álvaro Colóm

Tuesday, March 3, 2009. Tags: & & & & & .

Please join the petition at NISGUA.

Dear President Àlvaro Colóm,

I write to ask you to fulfill your promise to combat entrenched impunity in Guatemala. It is unjustifiable that the vast majority of the victims of the armed conflict, as well as victims of current human rights attacks, have yet to see justice for the crimes committed against them.

Although certain cases advanced in 2008, I am concerned that 99% of the atrocities committed during the internal armed conflict remain in impunity due to the failure of the Guatemalan State to effectively investigate and prosecute these crimes. The unit of the human rights prosecutor’s office in charge of crimes of the past has not prosecuted one suspect since it opened in 2005.

Instead, these cases are often stalled in ineffective investigations and legal motions. Judges often take months to issue rulings, and injunctions filed by defense lawyers (amparos) can take years to resolve before the cases even reach the prosecutorial stage.  This process only serves to delay – or completely deny – justice for the survivors.

In the national genocide case filed against Efraín Ríos Montt and his high command, a series of legal motions has delayed the declassification of military documents that could serve as key evidence towards prosecution.  Although a judge ordered their declassification in March of 2007, over one year later the Ministry of the Defense has yet to deliver the military documents to the Attorney General’s Office and the association of survivors.

On February 25, 2008, you publicly stated that military archives should be declassified and handed over to the Human Rights Ombudsman’s Office. To date, however, the documents remain classified information in the hands of the military.

Impunity rates for current human rights violations are inextricably linked to the failure to bring the crimes of the past to justice. In 2006 and 2007, the Unit for the Protection of Human Rights Defenders in Guatemala (UDEFEGUA) registered 466 attacks on human rights defenders, many of whom risked their lives by demanding accountability for crimes of the past. Nonetheless, the human rights prosecutor’s office did not prosecute any suspects in the 49 cases investigated during this period, while only three human rights defenders’ cases were resolved by other offices.  The prosecutors have not only failed to resolve individual cases, but they have also failed to investigate these attacks as part of a systematic pattern and practice designed to impede human rights work.

In the face of alarmingly high levels of impunity and violence, I ask you to fulfill your promise to prioritize the issue. I implore you to support the survivors’ right to truth and justice by ensuring that the military documents be declassified and promptly handed over to the public institutions as ordered. I ask you to advocate for changes to the Injunction Law that would halt the current practice of using legal motions to stall judicial processes. I further urge you to prioritize ongoing evaluations of the Attorney General and the Public Prosecutor’s Office to ensure that the institution be purged of employees linked to organized crime and to guarantee that the effectiveness of the institution significantly improve. Furthermore, I call on you to ensure that the government takes the necessary steps to guarantee the safety of human rights defenders.

Twelve years after the signing of the Peace Accords, the victims of the war deserve justice, just as human rights defenders today deserve to carry out their work without fear of reprisal. Now is the time to take a stand and prove your commitment to ending impunity and strengthening the rule of law in Guatemala and to encourage others in your administration to do the same.

Thank you in advance for your attention to the matter.

Sincerely,

Thomas Elsted

update:
I feel I should clarify that this letter was composed entirely by NISGUA, with a few minor correction by me. If you like, you can sign it here and email it to the presidential office in Guatemala.

En español:
(…)

Dozens killed in San Cristobal Verapaz landslide last night

Monday, January 5, 2009. Tags: & & .

It’s not a painting by Van Gogh or Munch. (Photo: Prensa Libre: AFP)
January 5th, 2009.

A beautiful evening mist rolls down the surrounding hillsides here in Xela as I write. But in the meanwhile, sadly, in San Cristobal Verapaz, some two hundred kilometers north of Guatemala City, the recovery work continues after a landslide that killed at the very least 33 people last night, as a chunk of mountain—ten thousand tons of mountainside, rocks and earth— came tumbling down on coffee farmworkers who were walking along the road home from work. Since at least another 60 persons are missing, the number of victims is inevitably bound to be a lot higher (probably more than 80 people) as the recovery work goes forward over the next days; a job that’s immensely difficult due of the geological instability of the area. Landslides in Guatemala are commonplace, but they usually occur during the rainy season (now is dry season). When I first came to Guatemala, one of the first things that astonished me was how people work, the level of sacrifice and strength that goes into getting the mere daily beans and tortillas on the table, and of course this brings perspective to the type of life I’ve lived so far; the coffee workers who lost their lives in yesterday’s mudslide were no doubt among those many Guatemalans and millions more throughout Latin America who broke their backs working long days in the fincas for a meager, often miniscule wage. It seems somehow more unjust and meaningless that those who work the hardest and earn the least gratitude are the ones to go first when disaster strikes. Of course, nature itself is indiscriminate, but the priorities of the Guatemalan government, like so many others (my own backyard certainly included) are not. The first thing most people encounter upon entering the country is the impressively smoothly varnished and conveniently modern Aurora Airport—built, I suspect, mainly to impress incoming foreigners with bucks for the tourist industry, and at the expense of improving the dangerously precarious roads and highways. Apparently no tourists were involved in the disaster, or someone surely would have told us.

Here’s to

Estuardo García, 36,

Jesús Lajuj Xitimul, 39,

José María Caal, 51,

José Alfredo Mendoza, 30,

Diego Elías García Alonzo, 23,

Joaquín Ixpata, 31,

Luciano González Lajuj, 29,

Sebastián Jom, 70,

Pablo Solomán Tzunún,

and the others who didn’t come home last night.

Jump start

Yuri Kozyrev / dispatches © Copyright 2008 dispatches magazine

Soldiers from the first amored division celebrate American Independence Day at a palace that belonged to Saddam Hussein’s son Uday. Baghdad, July 4, 2003.

For the Beyond Iraq issue at the dispatches website, Yuri Kozyrev has published the photo essay ирак, documenting post-invasion Iraq, what struck me the most was the above photo. Besides from making me think of the iconic scene of surfing soldiers after napalming a vietnamese fishing town in Apocalypse Now, it kind of sums up a great deal of what I’ve been learning for the past five months; about a war that has obviously failed, and while bringing about a deepening segregation between cultures, has cultivated ideological blowback and left a culture as old as civilization in rubble. The soldiers on the image celebrate their Independence Day amid the wreckage of a country that has not only been robbed of its promise of own national independence, but also looted of its cultural heritage, its infrastructure, and history – literally loaded onto trucks and disappeared. And while the soldiers were high on a sense of victory and, I suppose, of liberation, the country was in flames while the priority of the Bush administration was to fling open the borders for foreign multinational investment, privatize all institutions, industries and social services to non-Iraqi companies, and creating the widest of free-market zones anywhere in the world; an Iraq open for business, a shopping mall for disaster production and relief industries. According to Michael Ledeen, adviser to the Bush administration, invading Iraq was an attempt at “a war to remake the world” – and Thomas Friedman of the New York Times proclaimed that “we are not doing nation-building in Iraq. We are doing nation-creating,” as if there was nothing there to begin with.

Back in the seventies in military governments throughout Latin America, it was decided that in order to build and maintain stable societies and economies, “whole categories of people and their cultures would have to pulled up “from the root”" (quotes so far from Naomi Klein in The Shock Doctrine), including their cultural heritage, more often than not in order to make way for economic policies beneficial to investors. Full circle back to Guatemala, where the recent trend of United States sponsored military interventions had its kickoff. In these parts, little over fifty years ago, business had its buddying introduction into transnational politics when a banana company managed to have the U.S. overthrow the democratically elected government and install the first military dictatorship in a long row that went on until the nineties. They also witnessed the worst genocide in 20th century Latin America; the attempt to pull up from the roots the indigenous Mayan population, another culture as old as civilization, one of the richest and most beautiful I’ve encountered.

Now I’m back in Quetzaltenango, Guatemala. I hope to be able to address these things more, in the very least understand it and the context around me, and in the meanwhile keep looking for a voice and a medium. The policies and politics of these events of the past continue today, in other parts of the world, and continues to reverberate right here where it started; the Mayans are still targeted, now by static and insufficient social policies and discrimination and a still corrupt government. One of the better (or worse) examples is that of Efrain Rios Montt, the man responsible for ordering the destruction of some 400 Mayan villages during his presidency thirty years ago, who to this day retains a seat in the Guatemalan parliament.

By the way I’m violating the copyright acknowledged above as the image is reproduced without permission. If anyone has a problem with it contact me and I’ll remove the photograph from here right away. It’s taken from the photo essay by Yuri Kozyrev linked to in the first paragraph (and here).

Back in Xela

Wednesday, December 24, 2008. Tags: & & .

The view from my window, one cold December 24th. After a wildly entertaining chicken bus ride last night I’m back in dear old Xela (Quetzaltenango, Guatemala). The mornings are freezing and the afternoons warm – a grand setting for celebrating Christmas with friends. I’ll be calling this home for the next seven months or so.
It’s great to be back!

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